SIHH 2015: Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur

At SIHH in Geneva, Richard Mille introduced its new luxury ladies’Breitling Replica watches, the RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur. The watch combines a flying tourbillon mechanism with a distinctive automaton feature – all in a characteristically Richard Mille case.

The Tourbillon Fleur has a manually wound manufacture caliber, simply known as RM19-02. Its functions are hours and minutes; it has a 36-hour power reserve. The time can be read on the small dial in the top right corner. Beneath it, at 7 o’clock, lies an unusual flying tourbillon. The cage is 11.1 mm wide, with a balance wheel diameter of 10 mm. But the entirety of it sits between the five petals of a magnolia blossom. These hand-crafted petals, made of gold, will open every five minutes. When they do, the tourbillon rises 1 mm higher, pushing out to become more visible. It is meant to resemble the motion of a flower’s stamen; to that end, the center of the tourbillon is set with precious stones to look more like a bud. The petals’ movements and the rise of the tourbillon are powered by a second mainspring barrel and a separate gear train. The wearer can open or close the magnolia manually, adjusting its cycle, via a pusher at 9 o’clock.

Richard Mille 19-02 front open 560

RM19-02 has a frequency of 21,600 vph. It runs in 51 jewels. The movement has a Glucydur balance, Kif shock absorption, and a Nivarox balance spring. There are 4 screws around the balance wheel for fine adjustment. For more effective winding, the mainspring uses a barrel pawl with progressive recoil. Richard Mille says that this device makes winding roughly 20 percent more efficient. The crown has a torque limiting system, guarding the perfect Rolex replica watches against overwinding.

The case is made of grade 5 titanium, as are the baseplate and bridges. It is a three-part, tonneau-shaped case. Construction of the case requires 47 stamping operations; in total, there are 250 discrete milling operations. The finishing processes require a full day of work for each watch (see page 2 for details).

The case is 45.4 mm top to bottom and 38.3 mm in diameter. The Best Luxury Replica Watches UK is 12.55 mm thick. It is water resistant to 50 meters. Nonreflective sapphire crystals are on both the front and the back of the case. The front crystal has a hardness rating of 1,800 Vickers.

The RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur is being produced in a limited series of 30 pieces worldwide.

FINISHING:

MOVEMENT
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Locking sections hand polished
– Sapphire blasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
– PVD treatment

Richard Mille 19-02 Back CU 560

STEEL PARTS
– Sapphire blasted surfaces
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Burnished sections

Richard Mille 19-02 open tourbillon CU 560

GEAR WHEELS
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular finished faces
– Gilded (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance

Fratello Friday: Comparing the Original and Modern Omega Seamaster Ploprof

I love a good, modern re-edition watch, but most of the time a lot of watch brands get it wrong — wrong case size, wrong movement (or at least not in the right “spirit” of the original movement), wrong hands, wrong printing, and so on. Sometimes it is just one of these things, but most of the time it is a nasty combination of all of them, which doesn’t — in my mind — make the perfect replica watches a true re-edition.

When Omega introduced its Ploprof 1200M back in 2009 during BaselWorld, I was actually happily surprised to see that the brand did such a good job at first sight. The resemblance with the original Omega Ploprof 600M (Ref. 166.077) was amazing. The new Omega Seamaster PloProf 1200M looked identical to the PloProf 600M version of almost 40 years earlier. We’ve written about the Omega PloProf watches several times on my blog, Fratellowatches, but have never taken the time, until now, to put the two models together and have a closer look.

Omega Seamaster PloProf History In A  Nutshell

For detailed history on the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 600 I would direct you to this article on the Omega Ploprof’s History, written by Jon Wallis. I will give the highlights of the Ploprof history to you in a nutshell, mainly based on what Omega has documented on this timepiece. According to official Omega documentation, it took the company more than four years to develop a solution to create a watch that could handle the extreme pressure that a watch needs to withstand when diving at great depths. Even COMEX divers were involved in the testing of Ploprof prototypes during the Janus operation (“Ploprof” stands for “plongeurs professionel,” or professional divers). At that time, around 1970, Omega was already experimenting with materials like titanium for watches. Fewer than 10 pieces were made out of titanium for testing purposes, but none of them ever made into production, since the price of such a watch in titanium would have been totally crazy.

In the end, Omega came up with the following solution: a monocoque (or monobloc) case made of stainless steel with a locking bolt to secure the setting and winding crown. Of course, the watch needed to be waterproof, but at the same time had to take into account the extreme depths at which divers would be working in a pressurized chamber, where they breathe a mixture of oxygen and helium. The helium gas is able to enter the watch when it is under pressure, as you probably know if you are into diving watches. Instead of using a helium valve, like Rolex did with its Sea-Dweller watches, Omega decided that it would be better to prevent helium from entering the watch in the first place. Omega also wanted to measure the maximum pressure the Ploprof 600M could handle, which resulted in a failure of the watch at 1,370 meters (or 137 ATM) — at which the seconds hand stopped due to deformation of the crystal and case. The Omega Ploprof 600M was taken into production in 1970.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof - Old vs. New

Main Technical Differences Between The PloProf 600M and 1200M

The construction of the case and locking mechanism is exactly where the main difference between the original Omega PloProf 600 and the PloProf 1200 of 2009 can be found. The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M (reference 224.30.55.21.01.001) does not have a monocoque case and uses a helium valve. Also, the crown has a different mechanism to it.

Of course, the movement is also different. As you know, Omega is working hard to make sure most of its watches will have the in-house-developed Co-Axial movement. The Seamaster Ploprof 1200 has the in-house developed Caliber 8500 movement that we’ve also seen in a number of other Seamaster and De Ville watches. (The original Ploprof 600 uses the Omega caliber 1002 movement.) The new Swiss replica watches still comes with an Isofrane strap or the beautiful, stainless steel mesh bracelet. I won’t elaborate on the Co-Axial caliber 8500 movement as it has been discussed here several times.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof - Old vs. New - pushers

The photos in this article show you the differences between the watches in detail. The red pusher (needs to be pushed to rotate the bezel) made of plastic has been replaced by a metal pusher, the side of the bezel has changed so there is more grip on the new one, the caseback is now screw-down and has a number of engravings on it (including the Seahorse), instead of just an industrial-looking machined finish. The dial of the new model is also quite different. Not only has the location of the date changed from 3 o’clock to 4:30, but it also has a glossy finish and “rich” hour markers.

In my opinion, the Omega Seamaster PloProf 600 is a dedicated and perhaps ‘hardcore’ tool watch for divers, whereas the new Seamaster PloProf 1200 is a true divers’ watch as well as being a timepiece for watch enthusiasts. The new watch was created for a different reason, so to speak. Nevertheless, I would have a hard time making a choice between these two watches in terms of ownership. The vintage Ploprof is awesome and chances are good that the ones you will find out there really have been used for diving purposes (more later). The new Ploprof 1200 is a new watch created by modern machinery and using modern techniques, but I do think that Omega did a helluvajob on this piece. Even with the small design changes and the lack of a monocoque case, it is still a very very cool Breitling Replica watches to own. In the end, I believe you can’t go wrong with either one of them.